Pruning is the removal of branches from a tree or shrub to benefit the safety, health and appearance of the tree. Accurate and specific pruning of trees is important as it allows the tree to cope efficiently with the removal of pruned material.

 

Pruning trees incorrectly can allow disease and rot to set in, this is usually because the wounds are too big. Inaccurate cuts or wounds that are too large, will harm the tree so it is imperative that the pruning of trees is correct. If you are unsure about these techniques, please consult with a professional tree surgeon before pruning.

Reasons For Tree Pruning:

 

Pruning for safety: removing branches that could cause injury or property damage by falling from the tree. Pruning can also be used to increase lines of sight on streets or driveways, and for removing branches that grow into utility lines.

 

Pruning for health: removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow, reduce rubbing branches and some pests. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourages wound closure.

 

Pruning for aesthetics: involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open-grown trees that do very little self-pruning.

How to Prune a Tree Well : Correct Pruning Cuts

 

Pruning cuts should be made just outside the branch collar. The branch collar stores the healing tissue (merristamatic tissue) and this should not be damaged or removed.  Do not cut the collar.

 

A correct pruning cut requires three cuts to a tree:

 

• The first cut is a shallow notch made on the underside of the branch, outside the branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.
• The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
• The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation.

 

Some tree pruning tips

 

• Most deciduous trees are best pruned when dormant, in late autumn or winter. Don’t prune in early spring, as many trees bleed sap if cut at this time of year.
• The exceptions to the ‘deciduous tree’ rule are maple, horse chestnut, birch, walnut and cherry trees which all bleed extensively, even towards the end of their dormant season, so prune these in mid-summer after new growth has matured.
• Conifers require little or no regular pruning except the removal of dead or diseased branches in late summer.

 

Pruning Fruit Trees

 

Formative pruning can also be beneficial for fruit and/or flower production. Fruit trees, such as the cherry tree, can (generally speaking) be pruned twice a year, once in the winter for the structure and once in the summer for fruit production.  Formative pruning can help prevent disease and increase quality of fruit if good structure is created.

 

So when pruning tree, one can observe the origin of the branch and see a slight increase in size at the base. Inside this small bulge is stored the healing tissue (merristamatic tissue) When needed this tissue grows and forms new wood; whose aim is to enclose the wound made by pruning. The idea is to stop disease and rot entering the wound. When a tree does this successfully, it will leave a donut shape.

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Douglas Fir Tree Care are able to advise and help with your tree problems, for your free consultation or advice please feel free to contact by email

 

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